Exploring Gaia one kilometre at a time – Portugal Resident

I had not entered an official race since running my first marathon back in October the year before. I was staying in Porto and decided to check whether there were any races taking place nearby during my stay. The Gaia Half Marathon happened to fall perfectly within those dates, so I decided to sign up.

Historically, Gaia’s riverfront was a place of work rather than recreation. From the 17th century onward, wine produced in the Douro Valley was transported downstream in traditional rabelo boats before being stored in Gaia’s riverside lodges. Nearly all of the famous port wine cellars associated with “Porto wine” are actually located in Gaia, not Porto itself. Houses such as Taylor’s, Sandeman and Graham’s all age their wines on the Gaia side of the river because the Atlantic climate is cooler and more humid than the hotter conditions farther inland.

For centuries, sailors, fishermen and wine workers woke before sunrise along the Douro because they had to. Their mornings began with physical labour that paid their wages, yet on the morning of the half marathon, people gathered along the same riverbanks to voluntarily put themselves through physical stress for the fun of it. Instead of carrying barrels or unloading boats, runners adjusted GPS watches, stretched their legs and prepared to run 21 kilometres simply for the challenge.

The weather ended up being ideal for running. Before the race started, it was a little cold standing around in just a T-shirt next to the sea, but once the race began, the breeze felt refreshing. The misty skies also suited Gaia itself, circling back to that damp Atlantic climate that made the city perfect for aging port wine. Still, once the race got underway, the clouds opened up and patches of blue sky appeared above the coastline during the run.

I had run the distance of a half marathon dozens of times before purely for training and enjoyment, so I did very little preparation for the event itself. There was no elaborate race strategy, no running vest and no belt full of equipment. I left my AirPods at the hotel and carried only a couple of running gels in my pocket.

Music is always a great motivator when I run. I usually listen to music during shorter runs or during the final kilometres of longer ones for that extra push. However, official races create their own energy. The people, the atmosphere and the overall excitement of the event are often enough on their own to keep you moving forward.

That adrenaline allowed me to finish the race in around one hour and thirty-eight minutes, comfortably faster than I had ever completed that distance before. However, the Gaia Half Marathon felt very different when compared to the Lisbon Marathon. Lisbon had constant crowds and long stretches lined with supporters cheering runners forward. Gaia was calmer and more subdued. The race moved quickly and at times felt almost solitary, particularly along quieter parts of the coastline.

Part of that may have also come from the nature of the distance itself. The Lisbon marathon eventually broke down lots of runners both physically and emotionally, creating moments where strangers encouraged one another simply to keep moving. The half marathon did not really reach that point. The suffering felt more controlled, the pacing more aggressive, and the entire event was over much sooner.

The route itself was also straightforward and mostly flat. Runners headed out in one direction along the Atlantic coastline before turning around halfway through and making the return journey back towards the finish line.

At the finish line, runners received the usual post-race staples of water and fruit, but there was also a cold beer waiting. In Portugal, beer loyalty is often regional, and in the north Super Bock is the dominant choice, particularly around Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. In the south, Sagres tends to hold that position instead. Getting handed a Super Bock at the finish line therefore felt fitting for a race in Gaia, another small reflection of the city’s local identity.

In the end, the Gaia Half Marathon was not the loudest or most emotional race I have done, but it did not need to be. It was calm, well organised and enjoyable. Another medal collected, another city explored through running and another reminder that running can be one of the best ways to experience a new place.

Every race teaches you something different. Sometimes it is about endurance or pacing. Other times, it is simply learning what you are capable of.

Read more articles from Jay Costa Owen: Portugal told through Seven Wonders or The history of sunscreen