the stopover you’ll want to extend – Portugal Resident
It may sound strange to recommend visiting an airport, but Changi is unlike any other. It’s a destination in its own right, and after spending time there, it’s easy to understand why it is consistently ranked among the best airports in the world.
Before talking about the airport itself, it’s worth understanding what makes Singapore so unique. Despite its small size, Singapore has transformed itself into one of the world’s most prosperous nations. It has no vast natural resources and occupies just a small island at the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, yet it has become a global leader in finance, trade and innovation.
Archaeological evidence suggests that people lived on the island as early as the 14th century, when it was known as Temasek, a name derived from the Malay word for “sea”. Thanks to its strategic location along the busy maritime routes linking China, India and Southeast Asia, Temasek became an important trading settlement. Ships carrying spices, silk, ceramics, textiles, and countless other goods regularly stopped here, bringing not only merchandise but also a rich exchange of cultures.
Over time, the island became known as Singapura, meaning “Lion City” in Sanskrit. According to legend, the name originated with a Sumatran prince, Sang Nila Utama, who landed on the island after surviving a fierce storm. Believing he had spotted a lion upon his arrival, he named the settlement Singapura. Historians generally agree that the animal was probably a tiger, but the lion has remained Singapore’s symbol ever since.
As Singapore’s importance grew, the island became part of the powerful Sultanate of Malacca, one of Southeast Asia’s most influential trading empires. However, after the Portuguese conquered Malacca in 1511, Singapore gradually declined in importance and remained a relatively small settlement for the next few centuries.
That changed in 1819, when Sir Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company recognised the island’s strategic position. He established a British trading post and declared Singapore a free port, which quickly attracted merchants from across Asia and Europe. As a result, the population grew rapidly as Chinese, Malay, Indian and European communities settled on the island, laying the foundations for the multicultural society that exists today.
Unfortunately, the Second World War brought this progress to a halt. In 1942, Japanese forces captured Singapore in what became one of Britain’s greatest military defeats. The occupation lasted more than three years and was an extremely difficult period for the local population. When the British returned after the war, attitudes had changed, and many Singaporeans began pushing for self-government and independence.
Eventually, Singapore became an independent republic in 1965 after separating from Malaysia. The outlook was far from optimistic. The new nation had limited natural resources, high unemployment, housing shortages and genuine concerns about its long-term survival. Many doubted that such a small country could succeed on its own.
However, under the leadership of Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, Singapore embarked on one of the most remarkable transformations of the 20th century. The government prioritised political stability, reduced corruption, invested heavily in education, expanded public housing and actively attracted foreign investment. At the same time, the Port of Singapore continued to grow into one of the busiest in the world, taking full advantage of the country’s strategic location on one of the world’s busiest shipping routes. Within a few decades, Singapore had become one of Asia’s leading financial and commercial centres.
Today, Singapore feels almost futuristic. Walking through the city, I often felt as though I was inside a perfectly designed simulation. The streets are spotless, the public transport is incredibly efficient, and the skyline blends striking modern architecture with lush green spaces. Everything feels carefully planned and thoughtfully designed, almost like stepping into a game of SimCity. Yet rather than feeling artificial, Singapore feels remarkably functional and enjoyable to explore.
Before I experienced any of that, though, my first few hours in Singapore were spent at Changi Airport. It’s not just visually impressive – it’s probably the most efficient airport I’ve ever travelled through. Thanks to automated immigration and the fact that each departure gate has its own security screening, there are virtually no queues.
That level of efficiency did not happen by accident. Before Changi was built, Singapore’s main airport was Paya Lebar Airport. By the 1970s, however, it had become too busy to handle the growing number of passengers. Knowing that strong international connections were vital to the country’s future, the government decided to build a new airport on the island’s eastern coast. When Changi opened in 1981, it was designed to be more than just an airport. From the start, the goal was to create a place where people would actually enjoy spending time – a philosophy that still defines Changi today.
One of the best examples of that vision is Jewel, the vast glass-domed complex connected to Changi Airport that has become one of Singapore’s most iconic attractions. At its heart is the spectacular HSBC Rain Vortex, the world’s tallest indoor waterfall. Surrounding it is the Shiseido Forest Valley, home to thousands of trees, palms and tropical plants spread across multiple levels. Walking through the forest, it’s easy to forget you’re inside one of the busiest airports in the world. Gardens, architecture, shops, restaurants and entertainment all come together in a way that reflects Singapore’s vision of becoming a “City in Nature”. It is probably the only airport where I’d happily plan a long layover just to spend more time exploring.
I’ve stayed in hotels both in the city centre and inside the airport, and both were excellent. The airport hotel was particularly memorable, not only because of its convenience but because of the bed. The mattress and pillows were so comfortable they had earned the nickname “the Cloud”, and after a long-haul flight, I could understand why. Breakfast was equally impressive, with an enormous selection of both Western and Asian dishes. One of my favourites was the local noodle station preparing bowls of laksa, Singapore’s famous spicy coconut noodle soup.
Food, in fact, is one of Singapore’s greatest attractions. The country’s multicultural population, primarily Chinese, Malay, Indian and Eurasian, has created one of the most diverse food scenes in Asia. While the airport offers an outstanding selection of restaurants, the city’s famous food courts or hawker centres are where Singapore truly shines. Some stalls have even earned Michelin stars, proving that exceptional food doesn’t have to come with a luxury price tag.
Singapore is often described as a stopover destination, but that does it a disservice. Between its fascinating history, outstanding food and striking architecture, it deserves far more than a brief visit. Fittingly, the experience begins the moment you step off the plane. Changi Airport isn’t simply a gateway to Singapore – it’s one of the country’s finest attractions.
Read more articles from Jay Costa Owen: Exploring Gaia one kilometre at a time
