We first eat with our eyes – Portugal Resident

To construct flavour, our mind uses input from two main channels. The first is our body – our biological form – which operates a number of sensors as means of communication. For instance, the taste buds on our tongue help us detect sweet or savoury notes in ingredients and carry that information to the brain.

The second channel is our psyche – our intangible, experiential self – comprised of feelings, perceptions, memories, and emotions. This channel provides input based on our lived and learned experiences. We develop it by experimenting, observing, and trying new foods as we move through life.

They say we first eat with our eyes. So, the process begins with our senses. When it comes to flavour, five senses are deployed: sight, sound, mouthfeel (texture), aroma, and taste.

Starting with sight, colour and shape play a crucial role in our willingness to engage with food. Imagine walking through the bountiful stalls of a farmers’ market. Your appetite grows with every step, and dinner possibilities shift rapidly from meat to fish to vegetables as you wander along.

Food colour is a powerful, non-verbal signal that shapes our initial decision to approach or avoid a dish. It draws on learned associations between certain colours and pleasant (or unpleasant) food experiences. We associate red with sweetness and ripeness (red apples, tomatoes, strawberries), green with sourness and freshness (green apples, limes), and brown with comfort and richness (chocolate, stews, roasted meats). By setting these expectations, colour powerfully modulates how much pleasure we ultimately derive from eating.

Colour in food comes from pigments, naturally occurring substances found in fruits, vegetables, and meats. There are about a dozen common food pigments (a quick search on the internet will reveal the detailed list), and they can be notoriously fussy when it comes to cooking. They can fade, leak, or change appearance if the environment is not to their liking.

First of all, pigments only express themselves properly when the conditions are right. This is why they are classified as either water-soluble or fat-soluble, meaning they dissolve in water or in fat/oil. Think of beetroot juice dispersing evenly in water, or tomato paste merging beautifully into olive oil. Now swap the two, and you’ll quickly see the problem.

Pigments are also highly sensitive to heat and pH levels. Take chlorophyll, for example, the bright, zingy green typical of leafy greens, peas, and green peppers. It has a love-hate relationship with heat. At the right level (a quick blanch or brief boil), it helps the pigment express its vibrant colour. But if the temperature is too high or sustained for too long, it turns dull brown or grey.

Anthocyanins (the red, purple, and blue pigments found in berries, pomegranates, and purple cabbage), on the other hand, are particularly affected by pH. Acidic ingredients such as vinegar, lemon juice, or red wine help them retain their vivid colours. This is why traditional German red cabbage recipes always include vinegar or apple — they stabilise the colour. Alkaline ingredients, such as a pinch of baking soda, will turn the cabbage blue or greenish, a shade few of us find appetising.

Among the colours on the plate, browns are perhaps the most controversial. Browns are often associated with hearty, home-cooked meals that signal wholesomeness and comfort. This is why food scientists and chefs pay such close attention to the Maillard reaction, the process that creates those appealing brown colours and deep flavours in cooked foods. It is one of the most powerful natural ways to make food look and taste better. Think of a beautifully seared steak, roasted coffee beans, or perfectly fried chicken. All mouth-wateringly exciting. However, too much brown, or the wrong shade of brown, can look dull and unappetising, sometimes even acting as an appetite suppressant.

It turns out we also have predispositions towards particular geometric shapes. We tend to perceive round shapes as sweet, triangular ones as salty or spicy, and square ones as savoury or fatty. Studies have shown that foods with round or curved forms are generally perceived as more appetising than those with sharp or angled edges, possibly reflecting deep-seated associations with danger.

Food engineers even use shape to improve our perception of flavour. Research by Nestlé found that different shapes of the same chocolate dissolve at different rates in the mouth, affecting how flavour molecules are released and how the chocolate is ultimately perceived.

This is why it is essential that food is presented with care and love. Plating is the final step where everything comes together after the hard work of cooking. Chefs use various techniques to strike the right balance: the rule of odd numbers, asymmetry, contrasting colours, variations in height and texture, and the clever use of negative space. A visually appealing and well-balanced plate excites the diner and makes a delicious promise of the culinary journey ahead.

But that will be the topic of our next conversation.

Read more about food from Irina Mikhailava: The art of flavour: introduction or Beyond prime cuts: the global love affair with oxtail